© 2006 Jane Clancy

“In each time and place, ideas about women’s hair reflected ideas about women’s nature and about how women should live their lives.” –Rose Weitz

Post WWI:

1920-1930: The Birth of the Bob

Actress Louise Brooks, 1921

Springfield Armory Workers with bobbed hair

At the end of World War I, women’s fashion resulted in comfort and convenience. Long hair had been the norm prior to the 1920s, therefore cutting ones hair to above the ear was shocking and rebellious. The first bob hit the scene in 1920 when it was worn by actresses Louise Brooks, Clara Bow, and Colleen Moore and were the cause for the wide spread bobbed craze across the country.

Women who started the “bob” trend had the reputation of being promiscuous, because most of these women wore makeup, short dresses, and took advantage of their “sex” appeal. The bob lay its key significance in the fact that it paved the way for future changes in women’s hair fashion, making hair a part of the global fashion market.

1930-1935:

“Girls are going to look like girls this year.” – Ruth Murrin Good Housekeeping 1

Permanent waving process 3

By the late 1920s women began to grow their hair a little longer than previously in the decade. Many had longer pieces of hair that fell in front of their ears. By the 1930s the bob became even longer, reaching the back of their necks. This gave the bob a more feminine touch, compared to the sleek flat look of the early 1920s. New techniques developed by salons, “Permanent” and “Marcel” waving, allowed women who had straight hair to obtain flirty waves and curls.

Marcel Waving Irons 2

These new hair crazes caused the number of beauty parlors to rise from 5,000 in 1920 up to 40,000 in 1930! 4 Salons also placed adds in magazines in news papers, in a 1920s July issue of Vogue, an advertisement for a New York salon states: “Prominent stars have their hair waved here. Why don’t you? No kinks, but a beautiful wave, well nigh a marcel.”5

WWII:

1935- 1940:

Armory workers with WOW bandanas

Armory worker poses next to
Rosie the Riveter poster

By the mid 1930s,women began to use hairpieces to give hair more volume and length. Stylish curls mounted on top and back of the head became the desired styles of this time period. Much of this was due to practicality. With the start of WWII, many women entered the work force, having stylish hair, which stayed off of their face allowed for women to be fashionable at work.

WOW bandana keeps hair out of
the way on this Armory worker

In industry-based jobs, bandanas became fashionable hair pieces that helped to keep hair from falling into their faces while operating machinery for example. Rose the Riveter was the icon for this fashion statement.In her famous WWII poster, she wears the WOW bandana. These were mass-produced and many women working in the armory bought same bandanas to wear as outerwear and while working on machines.

Hair Dye:

Women at Armory get a check up from Dr. Hazel Richards
of the Springfield Armory medical staff. As many have
dark hair, having blonde hair in this mix would allow you
to stand out.

Armory Women in library
with blonde hair

Blonde hair grew immensely in popularity during this time due to actresses such as Jean Harlow, Mae West, and Ginger Rogers. Also an influx of eastern and western Europeans who had dark features began to flourish in America; thus American women needed to find ways to differentiate themselves. Blonde hair was also seen as something that was uncommon, therefore many women wanted to achieve the look that few could obtain. 7

1940s:

Bangs are banana curled in front
and in back of hair.

Dr. Hazel Richards examines an X-Ray.

The 1940s led to longer styles. Hair was often grown to the shoulders and curled at the ends. Yet, for working women this style was a bit impractical so they would often curl their hair back in banana curls going around the back of the head brushing along the back of the neck. Curls were important in achieving this style, many women would wear curlers to bed so their hair would come out properly the following day. Women at the Armory used this style frequently during WWII because it was easy to style with a hat or bandana and kept hair out of the face.